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Clearing Blocked Drains
The householder is responsible for the whole drainage system up to where it joins
the sewer, where a house is drained individually.
The local council is responsible for cleansing any part of a communal system, if
they were constructed prior to 1937. However the council can reclaim the cost of
repair from the householders. Systems constructed after 1937 are the sole responsibility
of the householders. They must collectively share the cost of repairing and cleansing
the drain up to the sewer.
If unsure, contact the Technical Services Department of your local council to determine
responsibility for the drainage system.
Determining the type of drainage system
You must ascertain the type of drainage system you have before attempting to unblock
a main drain.
The system most commonly used is the single stack system. The wastewater and soil
pipes are all connected to the same single stack.
Although drains run underground, they nearly always run in straight lines between
the inspection chambers, gullies, fittings and stacks. Inspection chambers or manholes
exist at every point where pipes join and where the direction or gradient of the
drain changes.
In older properties the inspection chambers can be brick built rectangular structures
with cast iron or galvanised steel covers. In newer houses plastic chambers can
often be found with iron or steel covers. In older houses built before the Second
World War the waste pipes are often divided into two separate pipe systems.
Waste from the WC is fed directly into a pipe of a larger diameter - soil stack,
leading to the underground drains. The drain gases are discharged at a safe height
into the open air above the house guttering.
The waste pipes from your plumbing fittings leading from upstairs baths and washbasins
reach the waste stack directly, via a hopper funnelling the water into another vertical
pipe.
An unpleasant smell from the inspection chamber is usually the first sign of a blocked
drain. Sometimes if the blockage is severe, sewage can overflow from a gully or
from under the cover of an inspection chamber.
Removing the manhole cover
Lift the manhole cover nearest to the house. It is not easy as cast iron covers
are very heavy.
If it is rusted in around the edge, use a screwdriver to scrape around the edge,
then tap round the edge with a hammer.
If it is still resisting movement, tap the cover gently with some wood and the vibration
should be sufficient to release the cover from its seating. Insert a spade under
one edge to raise the cover, place some wood under the edge to support the weight
and lift it aside.
Special keys are available for help in raising the lid, but if a key is unavailable,
a strong hook or piece of bent steel will suffice. If the covers have small handles
in the form of small bars across the indents. Here loops of string or wire through
the bars attached to a large piece of timber can be lifted by two people supporting
the timber.
If the cover is secured by screw bolts, it is wise to soak them in oil before attempting
to undo them with a wrench or spanner, then continue in the same way as above.
Finding and clearing the blockage
Once removed, if the manhole is clear, the blockage is between the manhole and the
house. The only effective tools for this job are a set of drain rods because they
are flexible, unlike a stick.
Sometimes a small blockage could be cleared by plunging with a mop or use of a stick,
but the outlets and inlets are hidden by effluent and flexible rods are usually
required.
Screw two rods together and slide them into the chamber in the direction of the
suspected blockage. Screw on another rod and continue pushing, whilst manoeuvring
the rods vigorously back and forth. Always turn the rods in a clockwise direction
as you push them, this will stop the rod loosening or a joint undoing whilst underground.
Continue until you feel the blockage clear.
The chamber should then be flushed thoroughly to remove all traces of debris. Sometimes
the blockage is caused by a build up of fat in the chamber. Flush hot soapy water
through the chamber to help remove any remaining debris.
If the blockage cannot be located, it must be further down the run. Lift the next
manhole cover and repeat the process.
If the lowest manhole is blocked, then the blockage must be between that manhole
and the sewer. If it is an interceptor trap, the blockages are nearly always in
the trap.
The trap is usually full of effluent, some stoppers are on a chain otherwise feel
for the handle with a stick and try to hook it out of its socket. Try not to let
the stopper fall and block the trap. Use the rods through to the sewer and then
flush out the channel with running water to clear debris.
Replace the stopper and before replacing the cover smear a little grease around
the frame to stop any rust in the future.
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